Information On Surfing : Basics Of Surfing
We look at riding waves in this installment of our how to surf guide.
The first part of learning how to surf is knowing what waves are right for you. With much smaller ones you may get stuck in the water due to a lack of power or be unable to remain standing up. Depending on your ability, a larger wave may cause you to fall off the board. For beginners, 3-4 foot (1-1.5m) waves are appropriate.
A good wave builds up from a rounded swell into a gradual 'C'-shaped body of water. If you see the wave shaping into a C begin to paddle from the correct position. Use a crawl stroke, alternating left arm and right arm, while lying on your board and facing the shore. While steadily paddling faster glance back to see where the wave is so you can estimate how fast and in what direction it is headed.
Keep your feet at a right angle to your legs while in this position. Hold your elbows close to your body like you were getting ready to do some push ups. Soon you will feel the wave start to lift you, which is when you need to perform the pop-up; going from lying down to a crouching position.
While holding fast to the rails of the board (the sides), jump into a position where your feet are in a central position with some space on either side of the middle of the board. Be sure to also angle your feet across the center line that runs down the middle of the board, also called the stringer.
From the crouched position, let go of the sides of the board and begin to stand by increasing the rigidity of your feet. When you stand up don't stand completely upright, be sure to bend your knees and extend your arms with one frontwards and the other backwards.